Myriam Hendrickx Rutte

Meet the Distiller ~ Myriam Hendrickx, Rutte

Myriam Hendrickx is at the helm of Rutte in the Netherlands, a 7th generation genever distillery that has been causing a stir with its Celery Gin which was shortlisted for Best New Spirit of the Year at Tales of the Cocktail 2016.

How did you start out in the business?

I’m a food engineer and I decided to specialise dairy, which as you can imagine is a big thing in Holland! Cheese really fascinated me. I then moved into consultancy and training which I did for a very long time. During that part of my career I got to see was the spirits industry and it caught my attention and I thought it more magical than cheese! In Holland we know so much about cheese, everyone is very open about what they are doing, how they are doing it and the machinery they are using.  There’s no mystery, unlike the spirits industry which is full of it! Using ancient ingredients and recipes really ignited my passion.

I became a distiller when I joined Rutte. Initially they wanted someone who knew about genever. After I met them I liked the company so much I cheekily asked them if they would hire me. It’s a really small distillery, so when I joined I was PR, marketing and technology manager. John Rutte (the last of the Rutte family) was still alive and in his 70s so I started learning from him but unfortunately he died a month after  started.

All his knowledge was in John’s head, so after he died we started sorting out the recipes and the archives. Then a couple of years later I was asked to run the distillery.

Rutte is well-known for it’s Genever. Did they have gin in their portfolio?

Yes, they did, but it was a very small product line and there wasn’t really a focus on it. We made it everyone now and again. There are old recipes from the ‘30s and prices lists featuring gin and bottled cocktails including martinis.

Gin was so small when I started that I just used to play around with it as a side project, but then this whole gin craze thing happened and then De Kuyper (of which we are a part) , were like “Hey, how about it?” The old gin recipe we found had celery in it and it was funny as De Kuyper were asking for something that bartenders could use in Red Snapper and I said – “we already have something!”.  We updated the recipe and here we are!

rutte_celery-gin

What did you do to update the recipe?

The recipe in the archive was very, very complex featuring 40 botanicals. Celery gin is a much more straightforward and has only 6. We wanted to highlight the celery and lifted it with cardamom,there is also juniper, angelica, coriander, and sweet orange peel.

How long did it take to perfect the recipe?

It’s difficult to say as I wasn’t working on it for 8 hours a day every day, but it was certainly a few months.

So what’s the most challenging thing about distilling gin?

I think putting the recipe together and making it balance. How you use the natural ingredients together and creating top notes and heart notes and base notes. After you have created the recipe it’s about maintaining the consistency and as a small distillery that is sometimes difficult as some of our ingredients are seasonal.

For example, once a year we drive to the sea coast to collect these fresh berries from our genever and have to put them in alcohol to preserve them.

That said, it’s great fun! This whole search for botanicals, picking and foraging in the wild is wonderful.

How do you choose which botanicals to use?

The great thing about Rutte is that it’s almost 150 years old and we have this amazing treasure trove of old recipes. They were stubborn and didn’t want to modernize unlike other distilleries. In 2003, Rutte was still using copper scales with weights and only had one computer. In some ways it needed a little renovating but the recipes had remained unchanged and there was this fantastic archive. So every time we do something, we take out the old recipe books and have a look and talk about what they meant and what they used. And we’ve build from there.

I’m working in 2016, but I still feel like I’m working alongside the generations before me.

What is the best things about your job?

I love the smelling and tasting, putting my nose in everything! I love sharing the story of Rutte and my passion. I think also taking our ancient recipes out into the world and showing them to modern bartenders.

Who or what inspires you?

I really like nature. I like to see how things grow. The first time I visited the tropics I wanted to see how cacao and pepper grow. I’m fascinated by plants and the smells and flavours they give. What amazes me is that if you speak to a chemist and talk about the aroma of orange they explain that there are hundreds of compounds in the orange group, all offering different flavours.

We had our gins and genevers tasted and tested to analyse their molecular structure. The researcher came back said he found popcorn molecule, which he had never found in a gin! We discovered it was the walnuts and hazelnuts that we roast. One of our genevers had lots of woody notes even though it’s unaged. The woody flavour was coming from the angelica.

I am also inspired by perfume. I went to Grasse recently and I loved seeing how they work. There are so many similarities with what I do, even using some of the same ingredients like orris root.

What’s your favourite gin cocktail and why?

It would have to be the Gin Basil Smash by Jörg Meyer from Le Lion Bar de Paris in Hamburg.He also makes a great variation the celery basil smash, using our gin.

gin basil smash
Gin Basil Smash

What’s your favourite bar?

We work closely with Drs in Rotterdam, which is great. The Dutch aren’t really into cocktails, we tend to drink things straight up ~ Beer, wine, genever.We do have some good bars in Rotterdam and Amsterdam though, and the cocktail culture is slowly emerging. Gin and Tonic is now a super-hip thing there!

Any future plans?

If it was up to me I would make something new every day! But really it’s lots more experimenting like comparing results of distilling on big stills and small stills. At the moment we’re trialling distilling botanicals separately and together and comparing the difference in flavors. It’s fascinating.

 

Meet the Distiller ~ Desmond Payne

They say you should never meet your heroes because you’ll come away disappointed, but when the opportunity arose to meet and interview Desmond Payne, Master Distiller of Beefeater Gin, I couldn’t resist.

The word ‘Legend’ in relation to people is overused in my opinion, but Desmond is the real deal and revered in the industry by bartenders and distillers alike. It’s easier to see why. Jolly, intelligent and eager to share his knowledge, it was an absolute pleasure to meet him.

Meeting Desmond Payne, Master Distiller, Beefeater Gin
Meeting Desmond Payne, Master Distiller, Beefeater Gin

How long have you been in the industry?

I started making gin in London in 1967. I was in the wine trade and I joined a company who were a wine and spirit merchant. They had a gin distillery called Seagar Evans and I became a trainee. I found it fascinating. They also owned Plymouth gin so I then spent quite a lot of time down there, about 25 years. After which I moved to Beefeater where I’ve been for the past 20 years.

How much has the industry changed?

If you went into a bar, there’d be three whiskies and probably one gin, Now, I was in a bar in Valencia, Spain, about 10 months ago, and they had 624 brands of gin. That’s what’s changed. It’s a great time for gin. The consumers are better informed, everyone’s reading back labels. They want to know what’s in things that they’re consuming.

People are much more inquisitive. They want to know about things that they’re eating, drinking, what clothes are made of, where they come from.

Do you feel like you have to defend Beefeater, because the perception is it’s not made in the same way as ‘craft’ gin?

It’s funny that somehow, gin got a reputation for being slightly industrial like vodka. Gin comes out of a big factory somewhere. It’s absolutely not true. We do everything. We weigh things by hand and we do exactly what they (‘craft’ distillers) do but on a larger scale.

Craft is not enough. You actually need a combination of craft and skill and various other things. It’s about how you do things and how all the decisions are made by people and not machines. We use computers, of course, (they send us damn emails!) but the decisions are made with the nose and palate. When we look at our juniper crop each year, we’re looking at something like 200 samples of juniper berries from each year’s crop. Consistency is something that’s much easier to achieve on larger scale.

What is the best thing about your job?

It’s the sheer variety. I’m very lucky in that I’ve pretty much always been in a situation where I’m involved in everything from buying the juniper berries and assessing the quality of the botanicals, right through to distillation and lately a lot of new product development. Gin is on a roll! I’ve made six new gins over the last six years. In the previous forty, none!

How do you feel about that there are some gins having only four botanicals and others so many it’s difficult to remember them all?

I think honestly it doesn’t matter. There’s one gin we all know with four botanicals, it’s good gin. It’s how they complement each other and how they balance, and how work in the simplest gin and tonic. Not all gins work perfectly in all cocktails.

You know, a good gin should be versatile, but it should have enough integrity to work on its own. Which is why the Burrough’s Reserve is a sipping gin. It’s pure gin. You don’t have to do anything with it.

Do you welcome that kind of innovation?

Yes, but be careful. I think some of the new gins are trying almost too hard. When I talk to the botanical suppliers they say, oh I’m getting people phoning all the time saying, “What have you got that nobody else is using?”, which is fine, but what impact does it make on the flavour? The thing I’ve really learned over the mistakes I’ve made in the last 45 years, is it’s a gentle touch.

With Beefeater 24, what I had to do was to create a new balance but in a different place, but it still has to be balanced. It has to have its own integrity. It’s like making a cocktail, that extra drop of lemon juice or whatever would just change the character. There’s always a tipping point of which, “whoops, gone too far”. There’s no way back. It’s about balance.

What is the most challenging thing about distilling gin?

It’s finding a balance, in creating a gin, and maintaining that gin as being consistent. I’m very aware as a gin distiller that I make is not what anybody drinks, hardly ever. There’s always something else done to it, I’m kind of halfway. My job as a distiller is to produce something that is well balanced and has that potential and the ability to work in many directions in the hands of a good bartender. Whichever way he or she wants to take it.

Are you going to be doing more new gins?

I’m sure I haven’t finished. I was fortunate enough to receive a life-time achievement award the other day. I said, “Thank you very much, I’ve very pleased to have it, but actually, I haven’t finished yet.”

How did you go about selecting which additional botanicals or what flavors to use when you made your new gins?

Beefeater 24 was my first, and it took a while. A year and a half!

The marketing guys are saying, “Come Desmond, we’ve got the packaging done, and the launch party, we’ve got a date. How’s the gin coming on?” and I’m saying “I’m not ready yet!”.

You kind of wait for inspiration. There are two things that make all these gins different. One is, what botanicals? That’s where the flavour comes from. The other is how you make it. The rest is marketing, equally important. It’s about putting packaging and everything else on a bottle. What I didn’t want to change with making Beefeater 24 was the ‘how’. That 24 hour steeping period that comes from the name. I try to tell people it’s my age, but obviously it doesn’t work! That 24 hour steeping period is so important in integrating all these flavours. I didn’t want to change that, so I changed the botanicals.

Beefeater’s a great, well balanced recipe and James Burrough’s picture’s in my office watching me to make sure that I don’t change his gin!  That’s why I’m the custodian of that. The inspiration came to use tea in Beefeater 24 because I had been in Japan about a year beforehand. You work quite hard in when you’re in Japan and I’m ready for my gin and tonic at the end of the day and Beefeater’s number 1 everywhere, but Japanese tonic water is different or was then. They weren’t allowed to use quinine as it’s considered a medicinal drug, and you can’t put drugs in food stuffs (although I think they can do it now). So the Japanese tonic was different, so my gin and tonic is different. I’m not really happy, so what to drink?

What sort of things were around? Tea, Iced lemon tea, green tea, and I thought ‘will that that work?’. And wow, yes it does. The molecular structure of tea means it works very successfully with other flavours. I thought, okay, tea works as a mixer. How would it work in distillation? I started experimenting with different teas. That’s how I started. It’s just that light bulb moment when you think, ah, that’s something worth pursuing.

What about the Garden gin?

There is a wonderful garden in London, the Chelsea Physic Gardens. Which was planted, I don’t know 300 years ago. It’s filled with medicinal herbs for apothecaries and with James Burrough starting life as pharmacist in Chelsea I thought it would be a fascinating place to visit. I saw this lemon verbena there, and I thought, I love citrus notes, and I love to use citrus in a different way. I used the kaffir lime leaves in another gin and the summer gin I made was more floral, with hibiscus and black currant leaves while the  winter gin I made more spicy. I hadn’t really looked at herbaceaous flavours so I went with adding thyme and lemon verbena to the nine Beefeater botanicals because that is always my starting point.

Do you think there are too many gins on the market?

You know, they won’t all survive I’m afraid. It’s not easy to get something off the ground and then on somebody’s shelf. I kind of have a suspicion that when that happens people will come back to the classics. Classic, to me means something that’s been around for a while. Why has it been around for a while? Because it works, because it’s good.

It’s really fascinating. I do see, now, a lot of gins, using local botanicals. In Australia, South Africa, and all over the place, which is really nice to see. But don’t do it just because it’s local, do it, number one, because it works. That’s the whole thing about gin. English gin, London gin, none of the botanicals come from London, the art is the skill of putting it together. It’s what we do well in England. We bring things in from the world and turn them into something else and send them back again. Like marmalade.

Who/what inspires you?

I travel a lot these days. Which is great. You pick up inspiration everywhere you go. I think this generation of bartenders, and I’m not saying this because we’re sitting in the middle of Tales of the Cocktail, are better at their game than the ones we all give reverence to, Harry Craddock and the rest of them. I think this generation are better than them. They are so creative.

They understand their art and they’re passionate about what they do. They’re producing great things. They’re a great inspiration to me. The thing that persuaded me to do Burrough’s Reserve as an aged gin was having an aged negroni in Clyde Common in Portland Oregon. What a difference that made!

Your favourite gin cocktail and why?

Oh, there’s so many. I’m a negroni fan, but I discovered about a year ago I’m diabetic so I’m watching the sugar. I’m kind of back on dry martinis. It’s gin. It’s what I’m saying about balance, not overdoing things. It’s that little bit of vermouth, and good gin. It’s that combination that just changes that balance. When you have a twist or olive, or the thing I love, is onion.

Which are your favourite bars (anywhere in the world)

Oh my goodness. Every time I go somewhere I find new ones.

In London, classic Dukes Hotel, their martinis and that mad Italian bartender.

What is it about their martinis?

It’s the theatre!

In London, Happiness Forgets is a bar making good drinks. In Athens, Gin Joint. What a fabulous bar.

LA, I’d never been there before, and I went to a bar there a couple months ago called Melrose Umbrella Company, which was great.

What was it that you liked about them? What sort of makes a good bar for you?

You can see that they love and they’re passionate about what they’re doing. It’s like any great restaurant seeing the chef working. It’s a passion you see that really makes it work. In Barcelona, there’s a bar called Boadas. Just off the Ramblas. It’s been there forever and they have making been making these cocktails forever. The Elderly bartenders do it the way they’ve always done it and they throw the drinks. It is just magnificent. I’d say I’d want to die there.

What’s next? Any future plans?

We’re bringing back Crown Jewel. It was originally made for duty free but when we launched Beefeater 24, we stopped Crown Jewel. Every time I speak to bartenders, somebody says, “I’ve got a question, why did you stop Crown Jewel?” I said, “Look, it’s finished, get over it.” But, last year we brought it back, as a thank you to the bartenders.

There’s always something about their mind bubbling away. Whether it ever ends up being a new gin or not I don’t know. I’m working with this David Munoz at DiverXO  in Madrid to produce a gin for and with him. That’s an interesting experience.  He’s an incredible guy. I have so much admiration for these people. It really stretches the brain. I see bartenders at the top of their game. They love to show you want they’re doing. “Oh try this, try this.” You think, wow, the care you go to do these things. It’s great.

 

 

 

 

 

William-McHenry-McHenry-Gin

Meet the Distiller ~ William McHenry, McHenry Distillery

The latest interview in my ‘Meet the Distiller’ series is William McHenry, Master Distiller of McHenry’s, one of Australia’s most awarded gins. His story is a fascinating one, involving a complete career change, as well as a move interstate, creating a very different life for himself and his family in the process.

How long have you been a distiller?

We are now in our 6th year. I moved from Sydney to Tasmania in 2010.

How did you become a distiller?

In around 2005/6 things weren’t going well at work. I was travelling between Perth and Sydney every week, working for a company that was in trouble, and as they usually are when things are bad, the atmosphere was terrible. I missed my wife and kids and knew that there had to be something else other than the life I was in. The trouble was, I’d worked in the pharma industry for so long, that I couldn’t see what other opportunities there could be for me.

Over a few glasses of Shiraz with a neighbour one night he says “well, with a name like William McHenry, I think you should be making whisky”. A lightbulb went on. Between 2006 and 2010 I spent most of the time doing research and educating myself. Oh and convincing the family that the move was a good idea!

So you originally set out to make whisky?

Yes, that was the plan. But I was pragmatic enough to know that for the business to work, I’d need cash flow and gin was a way of achieving that as it’s so much quicker to produce (aside from our Barrel-aged and Sloe gin which take 12-18 months). Protecting the business through diversification was also a key objective.

(note: William released his 10 year old Three Capes whisky to great acclaim this year.)

What is the most challenging thing about making gin?

I think the biggest challenge in the beginning was getting the recipe right. I continually bounced ideas off my wife, Ali, who has a very different palate to me. Every time I presented her with what I thought was the winning recipe, she didn’t like it. We just couldn’t agree. It was extremely frustrating, but I think in the end, having the combination of two contrasting tasters like ourselves meant we created a gin with a much broader appeal than if I had just gone with what I wanted. The gin is all the better for both our inputs.

McHenry Navy Strength Gin and Tonic
McHenry Navy Strength Gin and Tonic

How did you choose which botanicals to use?

You have to remember that back when I started the gin landscape was dominated by imported gins. There wasn’t the support for Australian gins as there is today, so I wanted to create a classic gin that could stand up to the international competition and hold its own.

William McHenry and Sloe Berries
Foraging for sloe berries with William

I remember watching a booze program with James May and Oz Clarke where they visited Plymouth distillery and were talking about cardamom. I hadn’t seen much of it in gin, so I started with that. I also knew I wanted to use star anise, as I like the flavour. Then I added coriander, juniper (obviously) and orris root to the list. Our citrus comes from Valencia oranges that we peel and dry ourselves.

What the best thing about your job?

Two things really. Meeting people who love gin. I’m a natural extrovert, so I really enjoy it when people drop in to find out more about what we do, as well as converting those who don’t see themselves as gin drinkers.

The other thing is the sheer joy of making something that people like to drink!

Who or what inspires you?

My family. When I set the distillery up, it was with a simple purpose, to eventually gift the business to my three children. I would like to think that McHenry distillery will be passed on through the generations and that in 2090 that my children’s children will still be working in the business. I’d like to leave a legacy.

What is you favourite gin cocktail and why?

My two favourite drinks would have to be a G&T and a Negroni. Nothing beats a G&T on a hot summer day, I’ll always choose that over a glass of white wine. As for Negroni, that’s my drink. I love the combination of bitter, sweet and orange.

Which are your favourite bars (anywhere in the world)?

Oh that’s a difficult one. I think I’d have to go with Bad Frankie in Fitzroy, Melbourne because they have my picture on the wall! Seriously though, Seb has been a great supporter of the Australian distilling industry and it’s a great bar.

The other is the The Henry Jones Art Hotel in Tasmania. Anthony has been amazingly supportive of what we do. If you come to one of my “Make your own gin” workshops, and then take your bottle to him, he will design you a bespoke cocktail using your gin for $10 or for free if you are staying at the hotel.

What’s next? Any future plans?

So many! It’s a really excited time for us as we move into the next stage of the business. We’re about to take delivery of a new 1500l still and we’re redeveloping the cellar door area. There is a new a pavilion being built specifically to host the gin-making workshops and some additional bothys for so people to stay at the distillery. Plus we’re realigning a road on the property in order to build a tunnel, which will be used to mature our whisky.

mchenry-and-son-distillery
McHenry Distillery

On top of that I’m working on some exciting new gin projects, but I’ll keep that under my hat for now!

 

If you’d like to meet William yourself, he will be at the Australian Drinks Festival (order your tickets with promo code QUEEN10 for get $10 discount) on the 16th and 17th July, where he will be running his “Make your own gin” workshops. Book here.

Meet the Distiller, Cameron Mackenzie, Four Pillars Gin

Unbelievebly, even though Four Plllars was one of the first distilleries I visited when I first started this blog, and I’ve met and chatted with him many times, I’ve never interviewed Cameron Mackenzie before!

Thanks to Cam and the team at Four Pillars for finally making this happen, even if I did forget to get Cam to tell me how he came to represent Australia at the Atlanta Olympics (true story).

How did you become a distiller?

Wow, we’re going right back! I guess it must have been 5 or 6 years ago that Stu (Gregor, one of the 3 partners in Four Pillars Gin) and I started taking about a project outside of the wine industry. Obviously he and I have been great mates for many years, having started out together in wine.I started out in production before moving into communications, sales and marketing. Although, I’ve always liked to get my hands dirty whenever I worked at wineries.

Stu and I came up with the bright idea to make tonic water. Remember, at the time there was no Capi or Fever-tree, only Schweppes and post-mix tonic. It was while we were at the Grand Hyatt that I ordered at Tanqueray 10 and saw it get blasted with post-mix that we started talking about producing a tonic water. I had some good ideas and spoke to a few food science guys who said it was relatively easy to come up with something unique, but it became obvious early on that to do it profitably you’d have to make about a billion litres. It’s a volume game. That in itself didn’t worry me, but we realised it meant we’d have to make it under contract and I really didn’t want to do that. It defeated the object, I wanted to make something myself.

We walked away from the idea for a few weeks and started to think more about gin. At about 3am one morning I got a text from Stu saying “Let’s make gin”. I think he might have had one or two!

Why not whisky or rum?

We’ve always been gin drinkers. I also think of gin as a wine-makers spirit. Vodka didn’t interest me at all – from a wine-maker and consumer perspective the lack of aromatics, flavour and texture, although technically it’s very clever to pull off a spirit that tastes of nothing!

Gin, however, has all the same things we look for in wine with the exception of sugar and acid. We’re looking for balance, texture, weight, flavour. That resonated with us and it wasn’t a hard step to go from wine to gin.

So you got Stu’s text…

Yeah, I became quite obsessed with the idea. Stu was obviously running his business, but I wanted to make a change so focussed on how we could make this happen. What style we could make, what still we could get, the legalities, the red tape. I fed all the information back to Stu who was a fantastic sounding board.

We then decided that if we were really serious then we had to do a road trip to the US, which at the time was more progressive than the UK. The UK had some interesting small players, but everything was still skewed towards London dry style and the one thing we were adamant about was not producing a London Dry. Nothing against London Dry gins but we wanted to do something different.

While we were in the US we reaffirmed our desire to just be a gin distillery. Few distilleries that we came across seemed to cross the stream very well. There were some great cottage producers making a vodka, a rye, a whisky, a gin, a rum and they have some wonderful products but they rarely left the state. The market is so large that they can afford to do that, whereas we wanted to be a craft distillery that could have some scale and we felt gin was our thing. That trip gave us the confidence that we could be a contemporary business when it came to gin. That we could use juniper as a canvas and paint interesting stuff over the top of it with other ingredients.

We also wanted to be a craft business. No cutting corners, No tricking up gins, no making cordials and diluting with ethanol. For us as a business we wanted to make a product. We future-proofed ourselves with this building to have 4 or 5 of these stills if we really want to. We’d rather have more stills than just triple our botancals and water it down with ethanol.

That’s when we decided on a Carl still. Everywhere we went in the US, there they were. We loved the spirits made on Carl stills. It didn’t matter if it was vodka , gin, rye or whisky there was just (maybe subliminal) a purity of spirit from those stills. Being copper was a big deal and they are beautifully engineered. The guys from Dry Fly in Washington kindly let us play on their Carl stills for a few days and I found them really manageable. I knew that if I could get my head around using one then I could train a couple of people as we grew.

So you knew you wanted to make gin, you knew you had to have a Carl still, what happened next?

Well, we had to sit out on the sidelines for 12 months while Wilma (their first Carl still) was being built.  As it turns out, that was a great 12 months, frustrating as it was seeing the industry evolving around us, not so much in Australia but overseas. We were sitting there chomping at the bit to get going! That year (fondly remembered as their “Breaking Bad’ phase) was a tremendous amount of fun and a brilliant learning curve. I played with as many different botanicals that we could get our hands on. I think we covered 90 odd using a little lab-ware glass still. We distilled them over and over and over, all the while looking at ‘Modern Australian Gin’ as a style we wanted and referring back to that. By the time Wilma arrived I think we’d whittled it down to a dozen botanicals that worked well together. I then spent 3-4 months dialling those ingredients up and down to get the balance right and eliminated a couple to get the final 10 to make Rare Dry Gin as we know it today.

I don’t think we realised what a head start we had from a flavour, aroma and consistency perspective. Our background in wine certainly helped us when deciding when to make the cut during distillation.

So how long from that text message?

I think it was about 2 and a half – 3 years from Stu’s text message to launch date.

Is it/was it difficult getting consistency in the botanicals, particularly the native ingredients?

Aromatically botanicals can change with age and supplier and I’m pretty ruthless. In our first year I probably rejected as much as I accepted. The great thing about my small lab-ware still is that I can use it to distill botanicals and create benchmarks which we can check against new suppliers and make adjustments accordingly. Saying that though it’s never more than about 10% that needs changing. As soon as Eileen (their newest still) is up and running I’ll be using her to create new benchmarks.

eileen

After a while as a distiller though, you do pick up inconsistencies with botanicals. It’s like being a winemaker and walking out to a vineyard and tasting fruit. You just know when it will be ripe, without testing the sugar.

 

Can I ask you about using copper in distillation? Does it make a difference?

Copper is very important in distillation. Even home distillers pack with copper wire. Copper reacts with the spirit as it passes through and removes sulphites. I personally don’t think you get as clean a spirit from a stainless steel still as you do copper. I think you always need to a copper surface to condense onto.

What’s the best thing about your job?

90% of the time I’m working on Rare Dry Gin which I love, but the other 10% is when I get to play, either making Navy Strength or making up small batches of things. It’s a bit like cooking!

I think working for ourselves is great. Working with Stu and Matt is amazing, we communicate really well and we’re good mates. We have 3 distinct parts to the team. Stu is a born connector, while Matt has the most amazing strategic mind. It’s been bloody hard work for all of us, especially with Matt and Stu having their own businesses and still putting so much effort into Four Pillars. There is so much sweat equity in this business! I do smile when I see people come in and see how busy we are and how easy it looks, forgetting that all of us have our houses on the line!

What’s the hardest thing about being a distiller?

I’m the first to admit I’m not the best time manager. You know that guy on the tv that spins plates and every now and again one starts to wobble? I feel like that sometimes! But it drives you. We say here that “we have no bad problems. We have good problems”. We have growing pains like all new businesses. Nothing major, just day-to-day stuff, and we probably underestimated our growth, particularly overseas.

That is something that sets you apart from other Australian gin brands, your profile overseas…

Yes, within 6 months of launching we had little spots here and there.

Was it as a result of a developed export strategy or responding to requests?

We didn’t start out with an export strategy but we have one now! I think when we won our first gold in San Francisco, was when we started to get onto people’s radar. Getting into London was relatively easy as we had contacts through the wine industry.

At the moment export is a small part of our business that is certainly growing. We’re actively targeting the UK and the US with China and Asia certainly on our list of priorities. China is developing an amazing bar scene which Stu and I saw first-hand on our recent trip.

It would be great if there was more support for Australian distilling by way of tax breaks.

Absolutely! That said, one of the only good things about our ridiculous taxation laws is that we haven’t been plundered by people looking to make a quick dollar, unlike the wine industry where everyone is living off the WET rebate. I think it’s really important that when those laws are changed, they should encourage investment in the industry not just people having spirits made under contract.

From Friday 1st April 2016 you can meet Cam at one of Four Pillars’ TGIF (Thank Gin It’s Friday) Masterclasses. More info here.

Anne Brock Jensen's Distiller

Meet the Distiller, Anne Brock, Jensen’s Gin

Anne Brock, Master Distiller at Jensen’s Gin is one of only a handful of female gin distillers. I am delighted that she agreed to be interviewed!

Anne Brock, Master Distiller, Jensen's Gin
Anne Brock, Master Distiller, Jensen’s Gin

How long have you been a distiller?

I have been distilling totally undrinkable and most probably highly toxic liquids for a while in chemistry labs, but I became a gin distiller in January 2013 when I joined the Jensen’s team, so just over three years now.

Did you always want to work in distilling?

No, but when I realised that I could become one it was as if everything fell into place. If you have a science degree there are so many careers you can aim for but none of them appealed to me. Becoming a distiller was casually suggested by a friend and I couldn’t believe that I hadn’t thought of it before.

How did you become a distiller?

Partly serendipity and partly hard work. I studied chemistry for a number of years and when I moved to London after the completion of my PhD. I contacted gin companies who might have distillery work available so that I could get some experience. I didn’t expect to land a job as a distiller straight away but was lucky enough to contact Christian Jensen just as he was starting to put plans in place for a distillery. I came on board to build (and then run) it for him.

What is the best thing about your job?

The people I work with at Jensen’s and being able to go into some of the best bars in the world and have a cocktail made with our gin. What is the most challenging thing about distilling gin? Creating a stable, reproducible and well-balanced recipe. I was lucky to inherit two time-tested recipes which makes my job a lot easier than it could have been.
How do you choose which botanicals to use?

At Jensen’s we make very traditional gins so we use dried botanicals and only those which would have been available to distillers back in time.

Who/what inspires you?

Attending craft distilling expos in the UK and the US and speaking to other distillers are big sources of inspiration. I love hearing what other people are doing and trying new products.

Jensen's-Gin-Dirty-Martini
Jensen’s Gin Dirty Martini

What is your favourite gin cocktail and why?

It generally depends on the time of day, the weather, and where I am. Having a Jensen’s martini in Duke’s is a special treat that I will never tire of and will always say yes to! Otherwise I love it when Hannah, Jensen’s Brand Ambassador, creates a bespoke cocktail in the distillery. I’m always the guinea pig and she always makes beautiful drinks.

Which are your favourite bars? (anywhere in the world)

‘Cane & Table’ in NOLA, ‘The Barking Dog’ in Copenhagen and ‘Bar Tozino’ in Bermondsey.

What’s next? Any future plans?

I have just made the first small (very, very small!) batch of old orange bitters. They are a blend of macerated spirit and distillate and are delicious. At the moment they are being shipped to some lucky bartenders to get their feedback. There is no point making a commercial product that they won’t use, so if we get the thumbs up perhaps we’ll look at making them more widely available – so far it’s looking good!’

You can follow Anne on twitter.

Mark-Watkins

Meet Mark Watkins, Master Distiller, Botanic Australis

Since I launched The Gin Queen a little over two years ago, I’ve been very fortunate to meet many of the local Australian distilling talent. One of the very first distillers I met was Mark Watkins, Master Distiller of Botanic Australis. Mark has been a fantastic supporter of my events and when Tourism Queensland helped me with a visit to Far North Queensland to visit the distillery, it was the perfect opportunity to sit down and chat properly with Mark and find out more about his path to creating one of the most awarded Australian Gins.

Botanic-Australis-Gin
Botanic Australis Gin

How long have you been distilling?

Since I was 16 when I made vodka in my cubby house. I naively thought vodka was made from potatoes and as my mate was a potato farmer we thought we’d give it a go. We ended up making something that can only be described as repugnant.

I went off to Uni to study environmental science because I wanted to save the dolphins and turtles but by the time I got to the end of my degree, I knew I didn’t want to pursue a career in that field. I got into wine science but I couldn’t handle the cold climate down south. I dry out like a lizard!

I came back to Queensland and built a 50litre stainless steel still then a 100 litre, before choosing a Holstein copper still, called Helga. Copper makes a massive difference in the flavour profile of spirits, it adds a smoothness that isn’t there when using stainless steel.

"Helga"
“Helga”

So what did you begin making?

I started out making fruit liqueurs while the rum was ageing, before finding this old recipe for London Dry gin and thought I’d have a go.

Why did you decide to take the recipe and replace all the ingredients with Aussie natives?

Obviously, I could I wanted to make a quintessentially Australian gin. I imagined a settler arriving on the first fleet, wanting gin but not being able to find the traditional ingredients and having to use bush foods instead of traditional gin botanicals.

How long did it take to decide which native botanicals would work?

It was no easy task. Aussie natives are so strong – so “bush-ey” that it took about 2 years to refine the recipe, using lab wear before approaching a still. I did a bit of botany at Uni and was keen to use as much local produce as possible. River mint and ginger grow like weeds around here and lemon scented gum and anise myrtle are readily available.

 

native-ginger
Native ginger

Once I had a feel for the potency for each of the botanicals I opted for cold maceration technique where the botanicals are agitated in alcohol for 48 hours before being removed. The remaining liquid is then run through the still. There is a lot of finesse involved in the process to make sure we get the flavours without the roughness of the bush.  Olida (strawberry gum leaf) is really strong, in 1200 litres of alcohol we only use 400g!

London Dry usually has between 5 and 12 ingredients, Botanic Australis has 14 how did that happen?

The recipe I worked from has around 11 or 12 ingredients. While some natives could be swapped fairly easily, – bunya nut replaced bitter almond for instance, some botanicals needed two natives. For the lemon component, I’ve used lemon scented gum and lemon myrte. Lemon myrtle can be very overpowering so I balanced it with the lemon scented gum. For the mint we used River mint and Peppermint gum, both of which have a bad back taste, but together give a freshness, which is also achieved by cutting at the right time. I love working with wild ingredients but it is tricky. There was no Maggie Beer book to help!

So what’s next for Mount Uncle Distillery, are there any new gins in the pipeline?

We’re planning a Botanic Australis Navy Strength and I have another idea but that’s top secret for now!

Botanic Australis gin can be purchased direct from Mount Uncle Distillery. Click here for more information.
Nik-Fordham-Bombay-Sapphire-Master-Distiller

Meet Nik Fordham, Master Distiller Bombay Sapphire

It’s an exciting time at Bombay Sapphire, not only with the newly opened Laverstoke Mill, but also with the launch of Star of Bombay a super-premium (and mighty delicious) gin.

I visited the new distillery in June and it was a fantastic experience (if you get the opportunity to go, you MUST) not least because I got the chance to meet and interview Nik Fordham, Master Distiller, who was very generous with his time and even gave me a sneaky peek behind the scenes, once I’d ditched my phone and camera!

How long have you been a distiller?

Since 2008

Was it something you always wanted to do?

My journey into distilling is not a traditional one. I did a biochemistry degree and ended up in a laboratory. Then worked for Unilever and Johnson and Johnson. My area was chemical engineering, logistics, and engineering project management. I got fed up with corporate life and went off to build houses for a couple of years.

I met my wife soon afterwards and she suggested I got a proper job and about the same time I saw Beefeater advertising for a distillery manager.

I was with Beefeater for 5 1/2 years during which time I qualified with the Institute of Brewing and Distilling (taking 2 years instead of 3) and won two awards; in the first year I won a gin and vodka institute award and then in year 3 I won the Worshipful Company of Distillers award for excellence.

I’m immensely proud of my time at Beefeater where I refurbished still No. 12 and was involved in creation of Burroughs Reserve.

How did you get the job at Laverstoke?

They poached me!

laverstoke-mill-distillery
Laverstoke Mill Distillery (image courtesy of Bombay Sapphire)

Congratulations on the opening of the distillery, it’s amazing!

Thank you! I think Laverstoke is great, how could you not love it? Look outside, that’s England’s purest chalk stream!

Everyone on the Bombay Sapphire has worked really hard to get everything right here. When we came online everyone was watching. We had so many sleepless nights.  It took 9 months of running the stills to get the gin perfectly consistent, which is an absolute must. Our relationship with our customers means that when they go to a venue and a bottle of Bombay is opened, it tastes the same as the last time they tasted Bombay at a different venue.

Tell me more about The Star of Bombay

It’s been very much a team effort and it was great to be given the trust to develop a new project, the first new gin for Bombay since we launched Sapphire East. Working with Ivano (Tonnuti, Bombay’s Master of Botanicals) was excellent.

We knew we wanted to something different over and above just adding a new botanical, so we used 2 different types of juniper, regular juniper communis and juvenile (younger berries) greener juniper, which give more pine notes. We have also added bergamot and ambrette seeds.

The gin had to be smooth enough to drink over ice even at 47% ABV and we’ve achieved that by using 100% vapour infusion as with our other gins. We are also running the stills at a different rate, first at 40% then up to 60% before dropping back down to 40%.

star-of-bombay-gin
Star of Bombay

With the use of juvenile juniper, how do you maintain the quality of the next year’s harvest?

Sustainability to is very important to us so we look to different suppliers ensuring that we maintain quality and consistency. Ivano has a great relationship with these people, many of whom have supplied Bombay for decades.

How did your choose which botanicals to use for Star?

Our London Dry and Bombay Sapphire have the same 8 botanicals, essentially the same core DNA, (the only difference is the cubeb berries and the grains of paradise), so we used that as our starting point.

Ivano and I then tried all sorts of flavour combinations. We decided on Ambrette seeds and Bergamot. Ambrette is described as “the musk of the plant world” and acts not only as a fixative but also brings depth while bergamot adds a different dimension. Interestingly, the aspects of each botanical changes as they react with each other, so we had to play with their ratios. I am also a big fan of liquorice as I have fond memories of my mum giving it to me. I love the mouth feel it gives to gin.

Who or what inspires you?

I take my inspiration from everywhere and anywhere. Look outside. The nature around me…did you know we even have bats here which fits so nicely with the Bacardi logo.

I also get to work with some pretty amazing people like Sam (Carter) Raj (Nagra), Ivano and Sean (Ware), that’s inspiring in itself.

How much Research &Development do you do?

We do quite a bit. I think about gin a lot, and make plenty of notes. Ivano and I only get together every month or so, but that’s plays a big part in R&D. We always like to have something in the pipeline.

What’s your favourite way to drink gin?

I’m very traditional so I like a martini with a bit of citrus across the top. Or a G&T, I like to be able to taste my gin so I’d go 50/50 with a bit of grapefruit.

Which are your favourite bars (anywhere in the world)           

To be honest, I love my local pub. I row every Sunday and like to have a pack of pork scratchings and a beer or a Bombay Sapphire G&T.

I’ve managed to put a Bombay Sapphire glorifier on the back bar of the pub so I can point at it and say ‘I made that!’

What’s next? Any future plans for Laverstoke?

We have lots of plans in development but overall I want to create a centre of learning. We have a self-discovery dry room where our hosts will take you through the botanicals and I do a masters distiller class which is 4 hours, but we’re very informal and like people to take their time as there is plenty to see and do here. We actively encourage people to sit by the river and relax with a Gin and Tonic!

My thanks to the team at Bombay Australia for making this interview possible.

joanne-moore-master-distiller

Meet Master Distiller Joanne Moore

On my recent trip to London I managed to swing an interview (and private gin tasting!) with Joanne Moore, the world’s first female master gin distiller. Joanne is custodian of the Greenall’s gin recipe as well as the creator of Bloom, Berkeley Square and Opihr Gin.

quintessential-brands
Joanne’s gins!

How long have you been a distiller?

Since 2006, our previous Master Distiller retired and so the accolade was awarded to myself to become the 7th Master Distiller since 1761 and their first female gin master distiller – a personal and professional proud moment.

Did you always want to work in distilling?

No not really, I have a degree in Biochemistry and on leaving University I started working in the lab at G&J Greenall as it was known then, that was in 1996. I worked my way up through the ranks and discovered a talent for creating gins so started working alongside our previous head distillers until I became the Master Distiller in 2006.

What is the best thing about your job?

The variety that comes with the role, creating new gin recipes and seeing them being enjoyed around the world by consumers.

What is the most challenging thing about distilling gin?

Nothing comes to mind although each project has its ups and downs, but that’s how we learn and improve. So I don’t see them as challenges really.

How do your choose which botanicals to use?

I choose botanicals that will always complement the key juniper notes in gin, sometimes I’m given a brief, or packaging design/visuals that inspires my thought process, to bring the brand alive. In the case of BLOOM I wanted to create a lighter gin that would encourage non-gin drinkers into the category so I used edible natural flowers and pomelo to create a light floral gin, with Opihr the brief was all about discovery and journey, so I envisaged a spice market with vibrant flavors, colours and aromas.

Who/what inspires you?

I get inspiration from everyday life. Food and drink trends, perfumes and most of all travel with my family .

Your favourite gin cocktail and why?

French 75 – gin and bubbles what girl couldn’t resist that?

Which are your favourite bars (anywhere in the world)?

I don’t have a favourite to mention but love the theatrics of watching a good bartender create a decent cocktail – one where you can taste the spirit you have chosen to drink.